How Much Should You Feed Your Dog? A Practical Guide for Every Life Stage

Obesity is the most common nutritional problem in dogs worldwide. Surveys consistently find that between 30 and 45 percent of dogs seen by vets are overweight or obese, with serious health consequences including joint disease, diabetes, respiratory compromise and reduced life expectancy. At the heart of this problem is a simple but poorly understood fact: feeding guide recommendations on pet food bags are a starting point, not a prescription, and most owners significantly overestimate how much their dog actually needs.

The Body Condition Score: Your Most Important Tool

Before calculating how much to feed, accurately assess your dog's current weight status using the Body Condition Score (BCS) — a standardised nine-point scale. A score of 4 or 5 represents ideal condition. You should be able to easily feel your dog's ribs with light pressure but not see them prominently. There should be a visible waist from above and an abdominal tuck from the side. If you cannot feel ribs without firm pressure, or if the waist has disappeared, your dog is overweight.

Life Stage Feeding

Puppies need significantly more calories per kilogram than adult dogs due to the energy demands of growth. They also have different macronutrient requirements — particularly for calcium and phosphorus — which is why puppy-specific diets are necessary. Large breed puppies (expected adult weight above 25 kilograms) require diets with controlled calcium levels to prevent developmental orthopaedic conditions. Look specifically for diets labelled "large breed puppy" rather than simply "puppy." Adult dogs should transition to adult maintenance food between 12 and 24 months depending on breed size. Senior dogs often benefit from diets with adjusted protein, phosphorus and caloric content from around age 7, though the exact timing varies by breed.

Activity Level Matters Enormously

Feeding guide recommendations on labels are typically calculated for a moderately active adult dog. Working dogs, dogs in competition sports and intact dogs generally need more. Desexed dogs, sedentary dogs and older dogs need less — sometimes 20 to 30 percent fewer calories than the label suggests. Using body condition score as ongoing feedback is more reliable than simply following the bag. Weigh your dog monthly, assess the BCS, and adjust the ration by 10 percent increments as needed.

Treats and Table Scraps

Treats are a significant and frequently underestimated caloric contributor. The ten percent rule — treats and extras should constitute no more than ten percent of daily calories — is a useful guideline. Foods that are toxic to dogs and must be avoided entirely include grapes and raisins, onion and garlic, macadamia nuts, chocolate, xylitol (found in many sugar-free products and some peanut butters), avocado and cooked bones.